Adjusting the V-Wheels
- The first step is to locate the V-Wheels on your fully assembled X-Carve. The V-Wheels are categorized as either static or dynamic. The static V-Wheels are attached by a regular nylock nut while the dynamic V-Wheels are attached by an eccentric nut. Note that every static V-Wheel has a dynamic V-Wheel associated with it. There are 8 V-Wheels on the X Carriage, 4 on each Y-Plate, and 4 on the Spindle Carriage.
- After you’ve located the V-Wheels, tighten the static V-Wheels on the Machine then adjust the corresponding dynamic V-Wheel. Here you are tightening the dynamic V-Wheel to the point where it takes a little bit of effort for it to spin. (Note: do this slowly to ensure you do not over-tighten the V-Wheel. This can cause the wheels to crack.)
- Now repeat this step for every pair of V-Wheels. Finally, test the wheels by moving the carriage. If the wheels moves along with the carriage without much effort, then they are properly tightened.
Squaring the Z-Axis
- Put the machine on a flat surface and use a large square ruler to see if the Z-Axis is square to the table. If it is not squared, go to the X Carriage and loosen the four button head cap screws that are threaded on the insertion nuts which holds the Z-Axis Makerslide in place (2 on the top and 2 on the bottom). Adjust the Z-Axis until it is square to the table. Once it is squared, retighten the screws and square it one more time to make sure.
Adjusting the Belt Tension
- Make sure the machine is unplugged so there is no resistance on the motors. Similar to the V-Wheels there are static and dynamic belt clips. Ensure that the static belt clips are sitting straight and parallel with the MakerSlide and also make sure it is sitting flush with the Y-Plate.
- Next remove the nut from the M5 x 25mm screw and loosen M5 x 8mm screw on the dynamic belt clip. Feed a little bit more of the belt through the clip up until the point where you can barely get the M5 x 25mm screw through the Y-Plate.
- Now put the nut back on and tighten the screw as far as it can go and then back it off less than a quarter of a turn. Push down on the belting as you do this so the belt won’t slip. Once you get the desired tension with the belt, tighten the M5 x 8mm screw. (Note: If the axes are hard to move then the belts are too tight.) Repeat these steps on the other two belts.
Setting the Motor Current
- Users with NEMA 17 motors should be fine without having to adjust anything. This is an important step for those with the NEMA 23 motors.
- To set the motor current, you will have to open up your fan enclosure to gain access to the gShield. You want the motor current set slightly above the range you need for your application, but not much higher. Overdriving the motors draws more current and risks overheating or thermal shutdown.
- On your gShield, there will be three 5mm trimpots (white squares) next to their corresponding axis. These are known as potentiometers or pots for short. Start by setting the current to zero. To do this you turn it all the way counter-clockwise. Turning it clockwise increases currently (The pots only have a 270 degree of rotation so be gentle as they can break easily.)
- Now try to jog the machine while slightly turning the pot each time. Once it starts moving reliably, note it, as this is the lower bound pot setting.
- Next, continue to turn the pot and jogging the machine until the motor starts to cycle on and off (starts stuttering). This indicates that a thermal shutdown is occurring. Back the pot off until it stops cycling on and off. This is your upper limit. Do not go above this. Anywhere in between the lower bound and the upper limit would be fine to use. At this point it is up to personal preference. Find the right spot by running a few jobs.